So, buyer beware if you don't buy directly from them. Sadly, they apparently made no attempt to differentiate the packaging at all so buyers don't know if they are getting the new-new product, the good old stuff, or the new BAD stuff if purchased from an online retailer or your LHS. If you contact them directly you can get new, good product. They have recently received a new supply of the material they use to make BMF. The Bare Metal Foil Company is aware of the issue. But I only use it on parts I know I won't be touching again. And it's not a paint, it's an ink.ĭon't get me wrong, it's a good product to have in the toolbox. It looks great, but be forewarned, it needs to cure for a long time (weeks) before it can be handled. I do have some old Testors Model Master foil, I may give that a shot. I hope that BMF gets this quality issue sorted out. It's just frustrating to have put so much time and effort into this model then to have to struggle with something so basic only to achieve mediocre results. Though the foil is rough in around the window trim areas, thankfully it looks fairly good on the fins and hood spears. I then have to allow about ten minutes for the glue to set before the final trimming. I then brush the areas where I intend to apply the foil with a diluted solution of Micro Krystal Klear and allow that to rest for a couple of minutes before reapplying and reburnishing the foil. But I'm learning to work with it.Īfter trimming an appropriate sized piece of foil I do an initial burnishing in place to work the foil into the basic shape of where it will go. Progress foiling with this most recent order of BMF is to say the least, slow and frustrating. Though it may seem like it, I haven't given up on this one. Thankfully, there's not as much brightwork on this particular car as there are with others of the same period.Īs always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment. It's actually not too bad, but not as good as it should be. rubbish, I should go through this order much more quickly.Īnyway, thanks for putting up with my rant, here's a photo I'm almost ashamed to share with you. But with the amount of spoilage I'm getting in using this. The last two sheets I ordered lasted me nearly a decade. Unfortunately I ordered two sheets of the product. It seems slightly thicker and less able to conform to curved surfaces but also less durable with a higher tendency to break and tear. It cuts and works more like lead than aluminum. It is certainly not the same alloy as it was in the past. the stuff to stick.Īlso a problem, but not as big a problem as the adhesive, is the metal foil. If I try to burnish it down or if I touch it in any way, it just literally falls off! Even if I just move the model to place the next piece, gravity will often cause it to drop away from the surface and float off like a dead leaf!Īfter fighting with this issue for a couple of build sessions, I started using a diluted solution of PVA to get the. It sticks long enough to get it into position and trim it but it that's it. Luckily, the problem with the lot that I'm currently mostly fighting with is adhesion. The complaints were focused on two aspects of the product, the only two aspects of the product, metal quality and adhesion. A few months after I received my order, I began to see the numerous complaints pop up on this board. Last year, I began to get down to the last bits of that original order, so I reordered. I've been using BMF since around 2010 or 2012 when I placed my first order. It seems that the BMF curse has finally settled on my humble workbench. The Ecto 1 from the first movie by Polar Lights and the "A" refit from the second movie by AMT.Īside from these points they are very much the same kit. The AMT version also has a more detailed decal sheet, an updated interior casting and some better detail items for the roof kit.Īnd of course, each kit represents a different version of the car. An issue due entirely to the locating tabs which are unique to the Polar Lights kit. As an example, earlier in this thread I posted about the difficulties I had fitting the fins to the body. While there aren't many of them, a skilled model builder would likely find them more of a hinderance than a help, as did I. The polar lights kit is a snap together and its engineering reflects that with the use of locator tabs, clips and slots in several areas. I currently have both versions of the kit on my bench and I have to say, for building, I prefer the AMT kit. One thing I'm curious about thought, what's your thoughts on this kit vs the AMT kit?
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